Care guide
Alocasia
Elephant Ear Plant
Alocasia spp. and hybrids
Dramatic arrow-, shield- or heart-shaped leaves on upright stems. This guide covers the Alocasia species and hybrids commonly grown indoors, from compact jewel types to much larger elephant ears.
At a glance
tap for detail ↓Just arrived?
Welcome home! A little settling-in is completely normal — here’s what to know in week one.
- A dropped leaf or a little droop in the first week is just travel shock — give it a calm, bright spot and time.
- Don’t repot for at least 4 weeks. It ships happy in its nursery pot — just sit that inside your decorative cover.
- Check the plant-specific watering guidance below before giving it a drink — different plants prefer very different levels of dryness.
Light
Bright, indirect light suits most indoor Alocasias — near an east window or set back from a brighter one. Harsh direct sun can scorch the leaves, while deep shade weakens growth and reduces the colour and contrast of patterned varieties.
Watering
Most indoor Alocasias prefer compost that stays lightly and evenly moist while they are actively growing. Check often, water when the surface has just dried and always let excess drain. Reduce watering noticeably during cool, low-light periods or dormancy.
Humidity & temperature
Alocasias generally appreciate high humidity and steady warmth. Bathrooms, kitchens or a grouped plant display can work well. Keep them around 18°C or warmer where possible, away from both cold draughts and drying radiators.
Feeding
Feed at half strength once a month through spring and summer while new leaves are forming. Pause when growth stops; strong or unused feed can scorch roots and build up in the compost.
Repotting & size
Repot in spring when roots and corms crowd the nursery pot, moving up only one size into a light, chunky peat-free mix. Species vary enormously in mature size. In a cool, low-light winter some may slow down, lose leaves or become dormant; keep them warm and only lightly moist while growth is paused.
Something wrong?
Most problems are fixable — find the symptom below.
Dropping a leaf as each new one opens
Cause
Normal-ish — many alocasias only sustain a few leaves at a time, especially when young.
Fix
Keep light and humidity generous and plants tend to hold more leaves as the corm matures.
Yellow leaves
Cause
Overwatering or cold.
Fix
Let the top of the compost dry before watering, and check it’s somewhere warm and draught-free.
Brown, crispy edges
Cause
Air too dry.
Fix
This is the humidity alarm — move it somewhere steamier or group it with other plants.
Drooping stems
Cause
Thirst, cold shock, or recent repotting stress.
Fix
Check the soil first; if moist and warm, give it time — Alocasias droop when annoyed and recover when settled.
Spider mites (fine webbing, speckled leaves)
Cause
Dry air — mites love a parched Alocasia.
Fix
Shower the foliage, raise humidity, and treat with a gentle soap spray; repeat weekly until clear.
Whole plant dying back in winter
Cause
Seasonal slowdown or dormancy, especially in cool, low-light conditions.
Fix
Keep the pot warm and only lightly moist. Some plants reshoot from the corm when warmth and light return, but check for rot if the corm is soft.
Meet the plant
About Alocasia
Common names include: alocasia, elephant ear plant, African mask plant.
- Alocasia leaves are toxic to pets and people if chewed — the sap carries irritating calcium oxalate crystals.
- The genus ranges from compact, heavily patterned jewel Alocasias to elephant-ear species capable of leaves well over a metre long; mature size depends strongly on the species or hybrid.
- They grow from underground corms, which is why a ‘dead’ winter pot so often resurrects in spring.
Seasonal care tips, four times a year
What to change as the light changes — no spam, ever.
